Dtours[paper]: April 2010

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Frol Burimsky. Interview with Karlo Steel / Atelier New York

Frol Burimsky. www.theperfectstranger.net

Below is the English version of the interview originally published in the premiere issue of DTOURS Paper Mag, new avant-garde fashion and lifestyle magazine from St. Petersburg, Russia. Last fall i interviewed legendary Karlo Steel - founder and owner of one of the best menswear shops in the world - Atelier New York.

For the Russian version please check DTOURS Paper - the New York Issue - http://issuu.com/dtourspaper/docs/dtourspapernyc

Karlo Steel (left) and Constantine von Haeften

Starting our interview, first I would like to ask you to tell a little bit more about you. How did you come with the idea of Atelier in the beginning? Was it your idea or was it a collaboration with your buisness partners? What was your experience in fashion before Atelier and what did you do before starting to work in fashion?

THE ORIGINAL IDEA OF ATELIER WAS TO PROPOSE A PLACE WHERE MEN AND WOMEN COULD SHOP TOGETHER. SO, FOR OUR FIRST YEAR WE WERE A MULTI LABEL "UNISEX" BOUTIQUE. HOWEVER, WE NOTICED THAT OUR MEN'S SELECTION FAR OUT SOLD THE WOMEN'S, SO WE DECIDED TO MAKE ATELIER ALL ABOUT MENSWEAR. THIS IS SOMETHING THAT I AM VERY HAPPY ABOUT BECAUSE MENSWEAR IS SOMETHING THAT IS VERY PERSONAL FOR ME. BEFORE ATELIER, I WORKED IN RETAIL AND DID SOME STYLING.

Were there any private experiences and experiments that influenced establishment of the Atelier?

NONE THAT I CAN RECALL.

Selection of brands is your shop is truly fantastic, is it more personal or marketing decision?

DEEPLY PERSONAL. IT WOULDN'T WORK ANY OTHER WAY.

The first Atelier shop was more like a salon where friends met, people who shared same aesthetics and people who liked the certain atmosphere. Do you think you managed to keep it in the new, bigger shop? What traditions, which have been brought up by that Atelier do you still manage to keep?

I THINK WE HAVE KEPT THE SAME FEELING AS OUR PREVIOUS LOCATION BUT ON A SLIGHTY LARGER SCALE. AND I THINK OUR CLIENTS FEEL THE SAME WAY.

Atelier represents one of he finest brands of so-called intellectual fashion, was it hard to start in the US, when the modern fashion and taste were quite different from what Atelier dictated? Some of the brands presented in your store are not so known even in New York, not talking about the whole US.

YES, IT WAS DIFFICULT AT THE BEGINNING BECAUSE NOT MANY PEOPLE KNEW WE EXISTED. WE DIDN'T ADVERTISE. WE BUILT UP OUR BUSINESS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY FROM WORD OF MOUTH.

How is development of Atelier being carried out? Is there something you constantly change?

ATELIER IS FILTERED THROUGH MY TASTE AND MY TASTE IS ALWAYS CHANGING AND (HOPEFULLY) EVOLVING. HAVING SAID THAT, THERE IS A STYLE WHICH IS ALWAYS PRESENT. THERE IS NO CONCEPT BEHIND ATELIER, I JUST BUY WHAT I LIKE AND I HOPE IT SELLS.

What is happening with the whole fashion world today, a lot of professionals expect industry to change a lot after the crisis time? Has it influenced your business?

YES, BUT NOT DRAMATICALLY.

I think in life our personal views, even principles change with time. Does it happen to you and how does it influence your professional life?

AS I SAID EARLIER, MY TASTE CHANGE ALL THE TIME BUT MY STYLE STAYS THE SAME.

What designers are your favorite; the ones you wear most yourself? Do you ever wear vintage clothes?

I LOVE VINTAGE CLOTHES AND I USED TO WEAR QUITE A LOT BEFORE I STARTED ATELIER BUT NOW I'M TOO BUSY TO REALLY DO THE LOOKING. HOWEVER, IF I STUMBLE ACROSS A PIECE (OR IF IT IS BROUGHT TO MY ATTENTION) I BUY IT. THERE ARE SO MANY DESIGNERS WHOSE WORK I LIKE: I HAVE THE UTMOST ADMIRATION FOR REI KAWAKUBO FOR HER LONGEVITY AND HER CONSTANTCY WITH PRESENTING STRONG AND CHALLENGING WORK. SHE'S A TRUE VISIONARY. I ALSO LIKE YOHJI YAMAMOTO FOR SIMILAR REASONS. IN THE 90'S I WAS OBSESSED WITH THE DECONSTRUCTIONIST IDEAS OF MARTIN MARGIELA AND THE DARK ROMANTICISM OF ANN DEMUELEMEESTER. I STILL LOVE THEIR WORK TODAY. I THOUGHT HELMUT LANG'S VISION IN THE 90'S WAS ALSO GREAT. THE 2000'S IS ALL ABOUT RICK OWENS FOR ME. HE HAS INFLUENCED SO MANY OTHERS, HE'S ALMOST A GENRE! THERE ARE SOME NEWER BRANDS THAT I FIND VERY SOLID IN THEIR VISION AS WELL: DAMIR DOMA, JULIUS AND BORIS BIDJAN SABERI. I'M SO LUCKY THAT I GET TO WORK AND WEAR MOST OF THE NAMES MENTIONED.

Who is your inspiration, style icon, if there is one?

I DON'T HAVE ONE.

And who are your favorite artists? The artworks by Joseph Beuys in Atelier – was it your idea?

NO, THAT WAS CONSTANTIN'S IDEA. HE IS MY PARTER IN LIFE AND BUSINESS. ALL THE PIECES THAT YOU SEE IN THE STORE ARE FROM HIS COLLECTION. CONSTANTIN IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE LOOK AND DESIGN OF THE STORE. HE WAS AN ART DEALER AND HAD A VERY REPUTABLE ANTIQUE SHOWROOM FOR YEARS.

In fashion there are always some designers who set up the trends and advance their time. Who is this designer today?

FOR ME, IT WOULD BE RICK OWENS.

Could you tell us names of online magazines and blogs you visit and why.

I VISIT CATWALKING.COM BECAUSE IT'S PURELY VISUAL. THERE IS NO ONE THERE TRYING TO TELL YOU WHAT YOU SHOULD THINK.

New York is for sure one of the leading world fashion capitals. How would you describe the New York style?

THERE IS NO ONE NEW YORK STYLE. ITS VERY DIVERSE.

What is your favorite city? – privately and fashion wise.

PERSONALLY, I WOULD HAVE TO SAY NEW YORK, BUT IT IS IMPORTANT THAT I LEAVE OCCASIONALLY OR ELSE I START TO HATE IT. FASHION WISE, I THINK TOKYO IS VERY ADVENTUROUS.

Many people consider Atelier to be one of the finest men’s stores worldwide. Would you agree on that? If so what makes it the best?

I AM VERY FLATTERED WHEN PEOPLE SAY THOSE THINGS BUT IT IS UP TO THEM TO SAY IT.

And of course a coulple of questions about new Rick Owens shop. How did you come up with the idea? Tell us a little bit more about the shop and its concept.

WE CARRIED RICK OWENS AT ATELIER SINCE 2003 AND WE NOTICED THAT THE DEMAND FOR HIS PIECES INCREASED CONSIDERABLY EACH SEASON. WE APPROACHED HIM WITH THE IDEA A FEW YEARS AGO BUT PERHAPS THE TIME WASN'T RIGHT BUT EVENTUALLY IT ALL CAME TOGETHER.

RICK DESIGNED THE SPACE SO MAYBE HE WOULD BE A BETTER PERSON TO ASK ABOUT THE CONCEPT.

What do you think made Rick Owens so successful, in the beginning he didn’t have a lot of sales and today he is one of the most famous and influentional contemporary designers.

I GUESS BY HAVING AN AESTHETIC VISION WHICH A LOT OF PEOPLE CONNECT WITH.

What is you professional dream?

I AM LIVING IT RIGHT NOW. I WOULDN'T WANT TO BE DOING ANYTHING ELSE.

WWW.ATELIERNEWYORK.COM

WWW.THEPERFECTSTRANGER.NET